Romance Was Born, resort 2021
Photo: Hanna Lassen / WireImage
One way to react to dropping temperatures is to snuggle under a cozy quilt—another is to wear one. Many designers, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons, and the anonymous team behind the Japanese label Khoki, have taken inspiration from all-American patchwork coverlets with intricate, kaleidoscopic patterns that can be “crazy” or follow more orderly templates. Yves Saint Laurent was early on the trend; his quilt-like couture dresses for fall 1969 made hippies haute. Alternatively, patchwork details can evoke a more homespun aesthetic, which might be particularly apt as cupping season approaches.
Khoki, fall 2024 menswear
Courtesy of Khoki
Khoki, fall 2024 menswear
Courtesy of Khoki
Khoki, spring 2024 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of khoki
Khoki, spring 2024 menswear
Photo: Courtesy of khoki
Thom Browne, fall 2022 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Thom Browne
Libertine, fall 2021 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Libertine
Collina Strada, spring 2021 ready-to-wear
Photo: Charlie Engman / Courtesy of Collina Strada
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2020 couture
Photo: Marijke Aerden / Courtesy of Ronald van der Kemp
Bode, fall 2020 menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Missoni, fall 2020 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Viktor & Rolf, spring 2020 couture
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Viktor & Rolf, spring 2020 couture
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2019 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv
Jonathan Cohen, fall 2019 ready-to-wear
Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Koché, fall 2019 ready-to-wear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Etro, fall 2019 ready-to-wear
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Loewe, fall 2019 menswear
Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2019 couture
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Rosetty Getty, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Courtesy of Rosetta Getty / Artist, & Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, NY
Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Randy Brooke / Courtesy of People’s Revolution
Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Randy Brooke / Courtesy of People’s Revolution
Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Bode, spring 2018 menswear
Photo: Andrew Jacobs / Courtesy of Bode
Sonia Rykiel, fall 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv
Dolce & Gabbana, fall 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2017 couture
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Viktor & Rolf, fall 2017 couture
Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv
Loewe, spring 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv
TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo
TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear
Photo: Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo
Junya Watanabe, spring 2016 menswear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Chanel, resort 2016
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Valentino, fall 2015 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com
Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear
Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com
Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2013 ready-to-wear
Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway
Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear
Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com
Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear
Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com
Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2003 couture
Photo: Style.com
Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2020 couture
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
Oscar de la Renta, fall 2002 ready-to-wear
Photo: Brian Edwards / Shoot Digital for Style.com
Versace, fall 2002 couture
Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com
Moschino, fall 1997 ready-to-wear
Photo: Gerard Julien/ AFP via Getty Images
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
Dolce & Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear
Photo: Condé Nast Archive
John Galliano, spring 1991 ready-to-wear
Photo: Guy Marineau / Conde Nast via Getty Images
Pretty in patchwork: A 1969 design by Yves Saint Laurent.
Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969
Yves Saint Laurent, fall 1969 couture
Photo: Reginald Gray/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images
Patchwork with panache: A 1969 couture design by Yves Saint Laurent.
Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969
This story has been edited and amended since it was originally published.