Get Cozy! A Survey of Patchwork and Quilt-Inspired Looks on the Runway

Get Cozy! A Survey of Patchwork and Quilt-Inspired Looks on the Runway

Romance Was Born, resort 2021

Photo: Hanna Lassen / WireImage

One way to react to dropping temperatures is to snuggle under a cozy quilt—another is to wear one. Many designers, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Raf Simons, and the anonymous team behind the Japanese label Khoki, have taken inspiration from all-American patchwork coverlets with intricate, kaleidoscopic patterns that can be “crazy” or follow more orderly templates. Yves Saint Laurent was early on the trend; his quilt-like couture dresses for fall 1969 made hippies haute. Alternatively, patchwork details can evoke a more homespun aesthetic, which might be particularly apt as cupping season approaches.

Khoki, fall 2024 menswear

Courtesy of Khoki

Khoki, fall 2024 menswear

Courtesy of Khoki

Khoki, spring 2024 menswear

Photo: Courtesy of khoki

Khoki, spring 2024 menswear

Photo: Courtesy of khoki

Thom Browne, fall 2022 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Thom Browne

Libertine, fall 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Libertine

Collina Strada, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Charlie Engman / Courtesy of Collina Strada

Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Dolce & Gabbana, spring 2021 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2020 couture

Photo: Marijke Aerden / Courtesy of Ronald van der Kemp

Bode, fall 2020 menswear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Missoni, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Koché, fall 2020 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Viktor & Rolf, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Viktor & Rolf, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv

CalvinKlein205W39NYC, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigital.tv

Jonathan Cohen, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com

Koché, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Etro, fall 2019 ready-to-wear

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Loewe, fall 2019 menswear

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2019 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Christian Dior, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Rosetty Getty, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Courtesy of Rosetta Getty / Artist, & Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, NY

Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Randy Brooke / Courtesy of People’s Revolution

Mimi Prober, fall 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Randy Brooke / Courtesy of People’s Revolution

Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Loewe, spring 2018 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Bode, spring 2018 menswear

Photo: Andrew Jacobs / Courtesy of Bode

Sonia Rykiel, fall 2017 ready-to-wear

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv

Dolce & Gabbana, fall 2017 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv

Viktor & Rolf, fall 2017 couture

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv

Viktor & Rolf, fall 2017 couture

Photo: Alessandro Garofalo / Indigital.tv

Loewe, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

Photo: Umberto Fratini / Indigital.tv

TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

Photo: Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo

TommyNow, spring 2017 ready-to-wear

Photo: Indigital.tv / Alessandro Garofalo

Junya Watanabe, spring 2016 menswear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Chanel, resort 2016

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Valentino, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigitalimages.com

Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com

Chloé, fall 2015 ready-to-wear

Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com

Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com

Maison Margiela, fall 2014 couture

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com

Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2013 ready-to-wear

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / InDigital | GoRunway

Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com

Jenny Postle, Central Saint Martins, fall 2011 ready-to-wear

Photo: Filippo Fior / GoRunway.com

Jean Paul Gaultier, fall 2003 couture

Photo: Style.com

Jean Paul Gaultier, spring 2020 couture

Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

Oscar de la Renta, fall 2002 ready-to-wear

Photo: Brian Edwards / Shoot Digital for Style.com

Versace, fall 2002 couture

Photo: Shoot Digital for Style.com

Moschino, fall 1997 ready-to-wear

Photo:  Gerard Julien/ AFP via Getty Images

Dolce & Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

Dolce & Gabbana, spring 1993 ready-to-wear

Photo: Condé Nast Archive

John Galliano, spring 1991 ready-to-wear

Photo: Guy Marineau / Conde Nast via Getty Images

Pretty in patchwork: A 1969 design by Yves Saint Laurent.

Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969

Yves Saint Laurent, fall 1969 couture

Photo: Reginald Gray/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images

Patchwork with panache: A 1969 couture design by Yves Saint Laurent.

Photographed by Bert Stern, Vogue, March 15, 1969

This story has been edited and amended since it was originally published.

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