How to spend a perfect day in Helsinki

Finnish people living in Helsinki — a capital set at 60 degrees north, on a peninsula surrounded by Baltic waters — don’t simply brave the elements. Instead, they revel in cold plunges, rejoice in the warmth of cedar-lined saunas and take inspiration from the wild, forested surroundings. The city fabric reflects its link to the environment, and visiting is a masterclass in living compassionately with the natural world.

9am: Coffee with a conscience

Stroll through Kaivopuisto park, an urban wood on Helsinki’s southern shore, and you might notice a burst of activity outside a clapboard cottage by the water. That’s Café Ursula, opened by local women in the 1950s using the proceeds from recycling newspapers and bottles. Today, profits from the smoothies — made with everything from carrot to sea buckthorn — go to local charities. If the weather permits, take a terrace seat, order from the menu of all-day brunches and watch the sailing boats in the harbour.

11am: Stylish souvenirs

From Marimekko prints to Iittala glass, Finnish design is known for clean lines, bold colour and high prices. Look for affordable options in Helsinki’s downtown Kaartinkaupunki neighbourhood, a 20-minute walk north from Café Ursula. Salakauppa is an exuberantly painted boutique selling handcrafted wood toys. A few blocks north is Momono, for Finnish glass and patterned homewares. Nearby, fans of legendary Finnish architect Alvar Aalto will appreciate Artek 2nd Cycle, an antiques gallery exhibiting classic Aalto-designed furniture. There are vintage pendant lights and mirrors for sale, as well as arty marketing posters from the 1980s.

1pm: Surprise lunch

West of the centre, on the 14th floor of a glassy new tower overlooking the Lauttasaari Strait, Michelin-starred Demo excels in unctuous Finnish chowders and Baltic seafood confections. The four-course ‘surprise’ lunch menu is £55, less than half the price of dinner. Set aside a couple of hours to try the likes of seared scallops and pearly caviar adorned with fruity glazes and paper-thin vegetables. Most walk-ins get a seat; buzz up from the inconspicuous side entrance to get access.

3pm: Cultural cornucopia

What’s on at the Cable Factory? It would almost be quicker to ask what’s not on. This multilevel cultural complex — one of the largest in the country — is set in the former headquarters of Finnish telecommunications giant Nokia, right beneath Demo. Outside, the facade has been covered in metal polka dots. Inside, visitors can catch as many as 10 art exhibitions at any given time, plus dance performances, movies, live concerts, events and general merriment, even on weekdays. Explore the various levels and venture into the courtyard, then duck out the back to the waterfront path, looking out to the archipelago.

5pm: Trail-riding up the coast

Pick up a bicycle from the city bike stand on the boardwalk outside the Cable Factory and head off on one of the traffic-free routes up the coast. Enjoy the late-day sun as it casts its fiery glow over the monuments that punctuate the network of green parks. If the day is warm enough, you could pull over at Hietaranta Beach and watch a volleyball tournament. Or carry on to Sibelius Park, with its great conceptual sculpture dedicated to Finnish composer Jean Sibelius.

6pm: Happy hour at a local landmark

Zigzag eastward to Töölö Bay and pull up outside Finlandia Hall, a concert venue set in a blinding white marble monolith designed by Alvar Aalto just before his death in 1976. Last year, it reopened after an overhaul that brightened it up while preserving Aalto’s soaring, sunlit spaces and cosy wood furnishings. Its after-work hangout, Finlandia Café & Wine, tucks into a windowed corner facing the bay and serves light fare at vintage Aalto tables. But you’re here for a glass of Alvar, the signature sparkling Chardonnay.

8pm: Artful cooking

It’s a 10-minute walk to fire-lit bistro Ateljé Finne, where nobody gets a bad table — especially not those who book the intimate sliver of mezzanine overlooking the main room. Best known as the former studio of 19th-century Finnish artist Gunnar Finne, whose modernist sculptures can be found throughout this double-height space, Finne is also beloved for its staples: warm bread from flour milled locally; simply roasted vegetables; and tender cuts of reindeer.

10.30pm: Drinks with drama

A 20-minute walk south from the bistro, a former police station has been refitted with wallpaper and a fantastical backstory. It now poses as the noirish and dimly lit Trillby & Chadwick detective agency. Knock on the speakeasy-style door for access and enjoy botanical cocktails flavoured with homemade cordials, like the Tuxedo, with gin, vermouth, maraschino liqueur and absinthe. Each drink is served with an excerpt from an intriguing backstory — a visit here feels like taking part in a murder mystery.