This article was adapted from National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Granada’s hill caves, labyrinthine alleyways and the medieval Moorish quarter combine to make it an enigmatic city break destination. This provincial capital in southern Spain offers literary lunches, mirador sunsets and Islamic architecture, with the spirit of flamenco infusing every facet of its artistic life.
8am: Breakfast on churros
Nobody quite knows the origin of churros — the indulgent breakfast dish of deep-fried dough tubes, dusted in sugar or dipped in hot chocolate — but one theory is that they came to southern Spain with the Moors. Certainly Granada has plenty of fine spots to try this long-standing favourite. Start your day at one of the best, Cafeteria Alhambra, choosing to sit in the atmospheric wood-panelled interior or on the terrace overlooking Plaza de Bib-Rambla, the heart of Granadino cafe culture.
10am: Marvel at the Alhambra
No trip to Granada is complete without a visit to the Alhambra, one of the world’s greatest buildings. An impossibly atmospheric mash-up of European and Islamic architectural styles, the palace was expanded and added to between the 13th and 17th centuries by successive Christian and Moorish rulers, who bestowed it with stately pleasure gardens, tinkling fountains, latticed archways and ornate ceilings. Booking a ticketed slot online far in advance is essential.
12pm: The Caves of Sacromonte
After the Alhambra, the most atmospheric place in Granada is Sacromonte, a large hill whose surface is riddled with cave houses and flamenco venues. Get a feel for the unique history of the place, which was traditionally the home of Granada’s Romani community, at the Museo Cuevas del Sacromonte, where reconstructed caves show you how people lived (and still live) here. There are also exhibits on local fauna and flora and on history, including the story of flamenco in Granada.
The botanical garden of the University of Granada is a central oasis lending itself perfectly for a calm break in the shade.
Photograph by David Charbit
However beautiful Granada’s bountiful orange tree-lined streets may be, make sure to marvel at the inedible variety from afar.
Photograph by David Charbit
2pm: A literary lunch
Although the poet Federico García Lorca died almost a century ago, it’s possible to join him for lunch. The atmospheric Realejo restaurant Chikito was once a cafe where Lorca would meet with his fellow intellectuals. With its dark-wood beams and tiled wall decorations, it looks much the same as in Lorca’s day — and now there’s a full-size statue of him which sits at one of the tables. The menu includes traditional local delicacies like tortilla del Sacromonte — an omelette with lambs’ brains and testicles.
4pm: Moorish relaxation
Head inside for some Moorish-style pampering at the Hammam al-Andalus, a striking modern bathhouse built in the traditional Arabian style. The treatment menu includes water therapies and essential-oil massages — perfect for rejuvenating those tired muscles after a day walking Granada’s hills. Suitably refreshed, walk five minutes to Calle Calderería Nueva for a mint tea in one of the street’s beautiful Moroccan teahouses.
6pm: Go tapas-hopping
Andalucia is considered the home of tapas, and Granada is one of the few cities where most bars still serve a decent portion of food for free with every drink — from hearty plates of patatas bravas (fried potatoes) to garlicky prawns and bocadillos (mini-sandwiches). Aimless tapas bar-hopping is one of the many joys of visiting Granada, and a cheap way of filling up, but if you’re looking for some pointers, options include local chain Los Diamantes, which specialises in expertly cooked fried-fish dishes.
Tapas are at home in Andalucía and are still served in decent portions for free with every drink.
Photograph by David Charbit
It is a known and popular occurrence for impromptu flamenco sessions to form atop viewing platforms like the Mirador de San Nicolas.
Photograph by David Charbit
8pm: Sunset at the Mirador
Views of the Alhambra draw the eye from all over Granada, but the most famous and beautiful of them all can be enjoyed from the Mirador de San Nicolás, which sits on a hill in the Albaicín quarter directly opposite the palace. Time a visit here for an hour around sunset to gaze across at the storied monument and experience some of the city’s most vibrant street life: expect to see musicians strumming flamenco guitars, kids playing ball games and plazas lined with terrace restaurants perfect for a casual dinner or a few drinks.
9pm: Flamenco auténtico
There are dozens of options when it comes to seeing live flamenco while you’re in Granada, but most of them are inauthentic tourist traps. See the real thing at Peña La Plateria, Granada’s oldest flamenco club, which opened in 1949 in the medieval alleyways of the Albaicín. Scheduled shows are held every Thursday night, but impromptu performances often occur on other days. If nothing is on, try Jardines de Zoraya, another well-regarded venue nearby.
(Here’s how to experience flamenco in Granada.)
Published in the Jan/Feb 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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